{"id":411,"date":"2007-10-10T11:03:38","date_gmt":"2007-10-10T10:03:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/?p=411"},"modified":"2012-10-12T21:00:32","modified_gmt":"2012-10-12T19:00:32","slug":"%e2%80%9epochvalen-bud-siva%e2%80%9c-aneb-maly-pozdrav-z-varanasi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/?p=411","title":{"rendered":"\u201ePochv\u00e1len bu\u010f \u0160iva\u201c aneb mal\u00fd pozdrav z V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

T\u011bch n\u011bkolik poklidn\u00fdch a p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch dn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsme pl\u00e1novali str\u00e1vit na r\u00e1d\u017easth\u00e1nsk\u00e9m venkov\u011b, uplynulo jako voda, a tak jsme se za\u010dali pozvoln\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00edskoky p\u0159esunovat do Beng\u00e1lska. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 zast\u00e1vce v D\u017eajpuru, ru\u0161n\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b s bohatou histori\u00ed a mnoha zaj\u00edmav\u00fdmi pam\u00e1tkami, jsme nasedli na vlak a druh\u00fd den jsme se s pom\u011brn\u011b snesiteln\u00fdm p\u011btihodinov\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm ocitli ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed, jednom z nejposv\u00e1tn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch m\u011bst Indie, kam ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u011b putuj\u00ed davy lid\u00ed, aby se zde vykoupali v o\u010distn\u00fdch vod\u00e1ch siln\u011b zne\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 \u0159eky Gangy. Toto m\u00edsto bylo os\u00eddleno lidmi ji\u017e p\u0159ed n\u011bkolika tis\u00edci lety a podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch n\u00e1zor\u016f pat\u0159\u00ed k nejstar\u0161\u00edm m\u011bst\u016fm na sv\u011bt\u011b. Dlu\u017eno dodat, \u017ee na to opravdu vypad\u00e1.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e vystoup\u00edte z vlaku ve stanici Varanasi Junction, okam\u017eit\u011b se na v\u00e1s vrhnou \u0159idi\u010di rik\u0161, cyklorik\u0161 a tax\u00edk\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed jsou v turistick\u00e9m pr\u016fvodci Lonely Planet ne bez d\u016fvodu ozna\u010deni jako \u201epredatory rishaw-walahs\u201c, a za\u010dnou v\u00e1m nab\u00edzet odvoz na nesmysln\u00e1 m\u00edsta za nesmysln\u00e9 ceny. V takov\u00e9 situaci velmi pom\u016f\u017ee, cestuje-li se ve v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed skupince, nebo\u0165 pak je mo\u017eno na kr\u00e1tkou chv\u00edli utvo\u0159it obrann\u00fd kruh, z n\u011bj\u017e vy\u010dn\u00edvaj\u00ed jen obrovsk\u00e9 krosny, a domluvit se, kam, za kolik a s k\u00fdm se pojede. V okam\u017eiku, kdy se kruh otev\u0159e a jeho \u010dlenov\u00e9 jsou p\u0159ipraveni k agresivn\u00edmu smlouv\u00e1n\u00ed o cenu jedn\u00e9 j\u00edzdy do star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 dav shrom\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00fdch rik\u0161\u00e1k\u016f p\u0159ipom\u00ednat hejno sup\u016f \u010d\u00edtaj\u00edc\u00ed asi 50 kus\u016f. V\u0161ichni za\u010dnou jeden p\u0159es druh\u00e9ho pok\u0159ikovat: \u201eMadam, maj rik\u0161\u00f3 veri \u010d\u00edp!!\u201c \u010di \u201eHelou, kom maj bradrs \u0161op!\u201c \u010di nejobvykleji \u201eMy friend, special price for you, only 150 rupees!!\u201c (Cesta m\u00e1 st\u00e1t pades\u00e1t.) Naj\u00edt n\u011bkoho, kdo v\u00e1s odveze tam, kam chcete, a skute\u010dn\u011b za pades\u00e1t, m\u016f\u017ee trvat p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b dvacet minut.<\/p>\n

P\u0159i prvn\u00ed n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed se \u010dlov\u011bka m\u016f\u017ee lehce zmocnit jist\u00fd pl\u00ed\u017eiv\u00fd odpor. Cesta do star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta vede neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u011b ru\u0161n\u00fdmi p\u0159ecpan\u00fdmi ulicemi, rik\u0161a se nebezpe\u010dn\u011b nat\u0159\u00e1s\u00e1, \u010das od \u010dasu naraz\u00ed do jin\u00e9ho dopravn\u00edho prost\u0159edku, v\u0161ude je c\u00edtit sp\u00e1len\u00e1 nafta z gener\u00e1tor\u016f, proto\u017ee v\u011b\u010dn\u011b nejde elekt\u0159na, kolem se line pach zkysl\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka, hnij\u00edc\u00edch slupek a odpadk\u016f a obloha je kou\u0159ov\u011b \u0161ed\u00e1 od smogu. Nechce se v\u011b\u0159it, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o m\u011bsto, kter\u00e9 bylo po dva tis\u00edce let centrem vzd\u011bl\u00e1n\u00ed, duchovn\u00edho \u017eivota a kultury. Je t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 si p\u0159edstavit, \u017ee tady n\u011bkd\u011b skute\u010dn\u011b je pom\u011brn\u011b presti\u017en\u00ed univerzita s fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed sb\u00edrkou mughalsk\u00fdch miniatur, proslaven\u00fd Vi\u0161van\u00e1th\u016fv chr\u00e1m, buddhistick\u00e1 st\u00fapa v Sarn\u00e1thu \u010di mah\u00e1r\u00e1d\u017e\u016fv pal\u00e1c. Obchody, st\u00e1nky a reklamy na ulic\u00edch jsou k\u0159iklav\u011b barevn\u00e9, a p\u0159esto jaksi \u0161ediv\u011b za\u0161l\u00e9. Cel\u00e9 m\u011bsto p\u016fsob\u00ed, jako by bylo v pokro\u010dil\u00e9m st\u00e1diu rozkladu, kter\u00fd v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b nen\u00ed procesem, ale sp\u00ed\u0161e stavem, jej\u017e je mo\u017eno beze zm\u011bny udr\u017eovat po mnoho tis\u00edc let. P\u0159esto \u2013 nebo snad pr\u00e1v\u011b proto \u2013 se v\u00e1m V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed snadno zad\u0159e pod k\u016f\u017ei a cosi v\u00e1s nut\u00ed se do n\u011bj vracet.<\/p>\n

V\u011bt\u0161ina turist\u016f ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed bydl\u00ed ve star\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b u gh\u00e1t\u016f, co\u017e jsou stup\u0148ovit\u00e1 schodi\u0161t\u011b vedouc\u00ed od dom\u016f do \u0159eky, na nich\u017e se lid\u00e9 koupou, perou pr\u00e1dlo nebo t\u0159eba pou\u0161t\u011bj\u00ed draky. Atmosf\u00e9ra star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta le\u017e\u00edc\u00edho nad gh\u00e1ty je utv\u00e1\u0159ena podivn\u00fdm prom\u00ed\u0161en\u00edm star\u00e9ho a nov\u00e9ho. Opr\u00fdskan\u00e9 domy se klenou n\u011bkolik pater nad splet\u00ed \u0161er\u00fdch uli\u010dek, kter\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161inou nejsou \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e dva metry, co\u017e ale m\u00edstn\u00edm nijak nebr\u00e1n\u00ed v tom, aby v nich jezdili na motork\u00e1ch nebo jimi tahali na kolech n\u00e1klady, kter\u00e9 dva metry zna\u010dn\u011b p\u0159esahuj\u00ed. V\u0161ude je bl\u00e1to, stru\u017eky pomyj\u00ed a odpadky, kter\u00e9 se p\u0159i de\u0161ti m\u011bn\u00ed v rozm\u011bklou \u0161edohn\u011bdou ka\u0161i. Ve star\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b \u017eij\u00ed ve zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed symbi\u00f3ze r\u016fzn\u00e1 zv\u00ed\u0159ata, kter\u00e1 ob\u00fdvaj\u00ed snad v\u0161echna patra pouli\u010dn\u00edho \u017eivota.
\n\"Ulicka
\nV bl\u00e1t\u011b uli\u010dek \u017eije po\u010detn\u00e1 a \u017eiv\u011b se rozr\u016fstaj\u00edc\u00ed populace pra\u0161iv\u011bj\u00edc\u00edch ps\u016f se spoustou je\u0161t\u011b nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 pra\u0161iv\u00fdch \u0161t\u011b\u0148\u00e1tek. Kolem nich se potuluj\u00ed kozy a po\u017e\u00edraj\u00ed zbytky z kuchyn\u00ed. Ka\u017edou chv\u00edli n\u011bkterou uli\u010dku zataras\u00ed sv\u00fdm objemn\u00fdm nafoukl\u00fdm trupem kr\u00e1va \u010di vodn\u00ed buvolice, kter\u00e1 se pr\u00e1v\u011b pokou\u0161\u00ed poz\u0159\u00edt n\u011bjak\u00fd zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b chutn\u00fd kus igelitu. O n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161e \u017eij\u00ed lstiv\u00e9 a podl\u00e9 ko\u010dky a ve vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch patrech je\u0161t\u011b lstiv\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a podlej\u0161\u00ed opice. V t\u00e9to atmosf\u00e9\u0159e st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00e9ho orient\u00e1ln\u00edho m\u011bsta jsou pak \u00fastrojn\u011b zasazeny kr\u00e1mky se suven\u00fdry pro turisty, obchody s domn\u011ble tradi\u010dn\u00ed hudbou, parf\u00e9my a \u201eprav\u00fdm indick\u00fdm\u201c oble\u010den\u00edm, \u0159vav\u011b barevn\u00e9 tabule guest-hous\u016f, restaurace, internetov\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny a reklamy na kurzy duchovna a meditace. Lze se jen dom\u00fd\u0161let, jak star\u00e9 m\u011bsto vypadalo p\u0159ed p\u0159\u00edchodem turist\u016f.<\/p>\n

I lid\u00e9, kter\u00e9 ve star\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b potk\u00e1te, tvo\u0159\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed sm\u011bsici. Kolem obchod\u016f posed\u00e1vaj\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed, a kdy\u017e vid\u00ed b\u00edlou tv\u00e1\u0159, v\u011bt\u0161inou se sna\u017e\u00ed n\u011bco prodat. Jejich rodn\u00fdm jazykem je v\u011bt\u0161inou hind\u0161tina, ale je tu k nalezen\u00ed i po\u010detn\u00e1 beng\u00e1lsk\u00e1 komunita a \u0159ada jihoindick\u00fdch men\u0161in. Kolem nich proch\u00e1zej\u00ed poutn\u00edci, br\u00e1hmani, ob\u011btn\u00edci, r\u016fzn\u00ed svat\u00ed mu\u017ei \u010di babi\u010dky a d\u011bde\u010dkov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed p\u0159ijeli do V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed zem\u0159\u00edt a sna\u017e\u00ed se vy\u017eebrat si dost p\u011bn\u011bz na d\u0159evo na poh\u0159ebn\u00ed hranici. Mezi nimi se ka\u017edou chv\u00edli mihne b\u00edl\u00fd odst\u00edn pleti n\u011bjak\u00e9ho z\u00e1padn\u00edho turisty. U\u017e od \u0161edes\u00e1t\u00fdch let sem jezd\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm hip\u00edci a r\u016fzn\u00ed duchovn\u00ed hleda\u010di, a tak p\u0159eva\u017euj\u00ed dredy a vymeditovan\u00fd, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b lehce zkou\u0159en\u00fd v\u00fdraz ve tv\u00e1\u0159i (ha\u0161i\u0161 je jedna z v\u011bc\u00ed, kter\u00e9 \u010dlov\u011bku na ulici neust\u00e1le n\u011bkdo nab\u00edz\u00ed a kter\u00e1 je tu velmi lehce a pr\u00fd levn\u011b k m\u00e1n\u00ed). Krom\u011b toho sem v posledn\u00ed dob\u011b za\u010dali jezdit Korejci a tak\u00e9 Izraelci, kte\u0159\u00ed si po dlouh\u00e9 vojensk\u00e9 slu\u017eb\u011b cht\u011bj\u00ed u\u017e\u00edt svobody n\u011bkde, kde je nikdo nezn\u00e1 a kam snadno dostanou v\u00edzum.<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e se ale poda\u0159\u00ed cel\u00fd ten povlak past\u00ed na turisty n\u011bjak\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem odloupat, m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed opravdu zaj\u00edmav\u00e9. Chce-li se \u010dlov\u011bk vyhnout turist\u016fm a nah\u00e1n\u011b\u010d\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed se je sna\u017e\u00ed lapit na r\u016fzn\u00e9 nesmysly, mus\u00ed se vydat na proch\u00e1zku po gh\u00e1tech je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed v\u00fdchodem slunce, nejl\u00e9pe tak kolem p\u00e1t\u00e9 \u010di p\u016fl \u0161est\u00e9 r\u00e1no.
\n\"Ranni
\nTou dobou se v rann\u00edm \u0161eru r\u00fdsuj\u00ed obrysy lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed jdou vykonat ka\u017edodenn\u00ed koupel v posv\u00e1tn\u00e9 Ganze, ob\u011btn\u00edk\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed jdou do chr\u00e1mu prov\u00e9st rann\u00ed ob\u011b\u0165, \u010di asket\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed sv\u016fj den. Lid\u00e9 p\u0159i ch\u016fzi \u010dasto opakuj\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00e9 invokace, mantry \u010di jm\u00e9na bo\u017estev a n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed celou cestu zp\u00edvaj\u00ed.<\/p>\n

\"Ghaty\"<\/p>\n

Je-li n\u00edzk\u00e1 hladina, je mo\u017en\u00e9 j\u00edt po gh\u00e1tech t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 po cel\u00e9 d\u00e9lce star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta a vyhnout se tak spleti bl\u00e1tiv\u00fdch uli\u010dek. Na gh\u00e1tech se odb\u00fdvaj\u00ed nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010dinnosti. Pr\u00e1dl\u00e1ci tu perou pr\u00e1dlo, posed\u00e1vaj\u00ed tu asketov\u00e9, diskutuj\u00ed tu br\u00e1hmani, lid\u00e9 nav\u0161t\u011bvuj\u00ed nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed chr\u00e1mky a chr\u00e1m\u011b\u010dky.<\/p>\n

\"Obrad<\/p>\n

Nep\u0159\u00edli\u0161 daleko od sebe jsou dva spalovac\u00ed gh\u00e1ty, na nich\u017e jsou na poh\u0159ebn\u00ed hranici spalov\u00e1ni mrtv\u00ed, a tak v\u00e1s po celou proch\u00e1zku po gh\u00e1tech prov\u00e1z\u00ed \u0161tiplav\u00fd pach \u010dern\u00e9ho olejnat\u00e9ho d\u00fdmu z poh\u0159ebn\u00edch hranic. To v\u0161echno se odehr\u00e1v\u00e1 neskryt\u011b a tak n\u011bjak p\u0159irozen\u011b. Ka\u017edou chv\u00edli ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed potk\u00e1te poh\u0159ebn\u00ed pr\u016fvod s t\u011blem na nos\u00edtk\u00e1ch, zabalen\u00fdm do z\u00e1\u0159iv\u011b oran\u017eov\u00fdch l\u00e1tek a ozdoben\u00fdm kv\u011btinami, kter\u00fd sm\u011b\u0159uje ke spalovac\u00edmu gh\u00e1tu. U poh\u0159ebn\u00ed hranice se shrom\u00e1\u017ed\u00ed v\u0161ichni mu\u017ei z rodiny a \u010dekaj\u00ed, dokud t\u011blo nesho\u0159\u00ed, aby pak kosti mohli nah\u00e1zet do \u0159eky. Okolo \u010dlov\u011bk ob\u010das naraz\u00ed na tantrick\u00e9 askety, kte\u0159\u00ed \u010d\u00edhaj\u00ed a\u017e hranice doho\u0159\u00ed, aby se mohli pot\u0159\u00edt popelem a obalit se do l\u00e1tek z nos\u00edtek (v r\u00e1mci indick\u00e9 tradice, kter\u00e1 klade velk\u00fd d\u016fraz na ritu\u00e1ln\u00ed \u010distotu a v n\u00ed\u017e je smrt krajn\u011b zne\u010di\u011b\u0165uj\u00edc\u00ed, se jedn\u00e1 o zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed zp\u016fsob manipulace s ne\u010distotou p\u0159i ur\u010dit\u00e9m typu duchovn\u00edho usilov\u00e1n\u00ed).<\/p>\n

N\u00e1sledky v\u0161ech t\u011bchto \u010dinnost\u00ed na \u010distotu vody v Ganze jsou pochopiteln\u011b katastrof\u00e1ln\u00ed a zne\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00edm jsou ohro\u017eeni nejen v\u0161ichni obyvatel\u00e9 m\u011bsta, ale tak\u00e9 populace slep\u00fdch sladkovodn\u00edch delf\u00edn\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed v Ganze \u017eij\u00ed. V \u0159ece kon\u010d\u00ed v\u0161echny spla\u0161ky, v\u0161echny odpadn\u00ed vody, v\u0161echen nepo\u0159\u00e1dek. Do vody je odplavov\u00e1n popel z mrtv\u00fdch t\u011bl i jejich nesp\u00e1len\u00e9 zbytky. Asketi, d\u011bti a ob\u011bti n\u011bkter\u00fdch chorob maj\u00ed poh\u0159eb bez ohn\u011b a jsou tedy prost\u011b vhozeni do \u0159eky. Krom\u011b toho v \u0159ece kon\u010d\u00ed i mrtv\u00e9 kr\u00e1vy a buvoli. Indick\u00e1 vl\u00e1da se sna\u017e\u00ed ji\u017e po n\u011bjakou dobu p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit obyvatelstvo, aby sv\u00e9 mrtv\u00e9 p\u00e1lili v modern\u00edm krematoriu na b\u0159ehu, ale v\u00fdsledky st\u00e1le nejsou valn\u00e9 a koupel v Ganze tak m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt podnikem zdrav\u00ed, ne-li p\u0159\u00edmo \u017eivot, ohro\u017euj\u00edc\u00edm. Poutn\u00edk\u016fm ani m\u00edstn\u00edm to ale zjevn\u011b nijak nevad\u00ed, v \u0159ece se koupaj\u00ed d\u00e1l, rann\u00ed ritu\u00e1ln\u00ed \u00fakon zvan\u00fd \u00e1\u010damana, tedy troj\u00ed usrknut\u00ed vody z dlan\u011b prav\u00e9 ruky, prov\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed tak\u00e9 zcela bez z\u00e1bran a \u0159ada z nich si je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159iveze dom\u016f trochu posv\u00e1tn\u00e9 vody v zataven\u00e9 n\u00e1dobce, kterou lze koupit skoro kdekoliv na gh\u00e1tech.<\/p>\n

Star\u00e9 m\u011bsto ob\u00fdvaj\u00ed p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm hinduist\u00e9 \u2013 a\u0165 u\u017e tento nepohodln\u00fd term\u00edn napln\u00edme jak\u00fdmkoliv v\u00fdznamem \u2013 a jejich p\u0159\u00edtomnost je patrn\u00e1 na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku. V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed je v r\u00e1mci indick\u00e9 mytologie spojeno p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm se \u0160ivou, jedn\u00edm ze dvou nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch indick\u00fdch boh\u016f. Na ka\u017ed\u00e9m rohu je mo\u017en\u00e9 narazit na mali\u010dk\u00fd \u0161ivaistick\u00fd chr\u00e1mek, svaty\u0148ku, \u010di jen na m\u00edsto s n\u011bjak\u00fdm posv\u00e1tn\u00fdm kamenem. V\u0161ichni majitel\u00e9 obchod\u016f maj\u00ed kr\u00e1mky oblepen\u00e9 barvotiskov\u00fdmi obr\u00e1zky \u0160ivova syna Gan\u00e9\u0161i, patrona obchodn\u00edk\u016f a dom\u00e1c\u00edho blahobytu. Ka\u017edou chv\u00edli \u010dlov\u011bk n\u011bkde zahl\u00e9dne symbol boha \u0160ivy lingam a \u010das od \u010dasu je mo\u017en\u00e9 zahl\u00e9dnout i symboly r\u016fzn\u00fdch bohy\u0148 jinak uct\u00edvan\u00fdch ponejv\u00edc v Beng\u00e1lsku. Ve v\u0161ech restaurac\u00edch a hotelech je mal\u00fd dom\u00e1c\u00ed olt\u00e1\u0159\u00ed\u010dek a je zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b p\u016fvabn\u00e9 vid\u011bt po r\u00e1nu majitele internetov\u00e9 kav\u00e1rny vyku\u0159ovat vonnou ty\u010dinkou v\u0161echny po\u010d\u00edta\u010de a ob\u011btovat nad nimi Gan\u00e9\u0161ovi r\u00fd\u017ei a kv\u011btiny. Ob\u010das si lze pov\u0161imnout nen\u00e1padn\u00e9ho vchodu do v\u011bt\u0161\u00edho chr\u00e1mov\u00e9ho komplexu, kter\u00fd je nevysv\u011btliteln\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem zabudov\u00e1n do zd\u00e1nliv\u011b neprody\u0161n\u011b nahu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 architektury star\u00e9ho m\u011bsta.<\/p>\n

D\u016fvodem skrytosti \u0159ady chr\u00e1m\u016f je p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm dlouh\u00e1 a zna\u010dn\u011b napjat\u00e1 historie problematick\u00fdch vztah\u016f muslimsk\u00e9ho obyvatelstva k nemuslimsk\u00e9ho okol\u00ed. V dob\u011b muslimsk\u00e9 nadvl\u00e1dy bylo zak\u00e1z\u00e1no postavit jak\u00fdkoliv chr\u00e1m, kter\u00fd by \u010dn\u011bl nad okol\u00edm a p\u0159evy\u0161oval me\u0161ity. Zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b historie Vi\u0161van\u00e1thova chr\u00e1mu, kter\u00fd byl n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t zbo\u0159en a nad n\u00edm\u017e byla za vl\u00e1dy mughalsk\u00e9ho c\u00edsa\u0159e Aurangz\u00e9ba postavena me\u0161ita, je zna\u010dn\u011b pohnut\u00e1 a jeho okol\u00ed mus\u00ed b\u00fdt pod st\u00e1l\u00fdm dohledem ozbrojen\u00fdch jednotek. Ve m\u011bst\u011b je st\u00e1le p\u0159\u00edtomna velmi po\u010detn\u00e1 a vzkv\u00e9taj\u00edc\u00ed muslimsk\u00e1 komunita. Ulice jsou pln\u00e9 \u017een zahalen\u00fdch pod \u010dern\u00fdmi \u010d\u00e1dory, z nich\u017e lze jen ob\u010das zahl\u00e9dnout p\u00e1r siln\u011b nal\u00ed\u010den\u00fdch o\u010d\u00ed a vysok\u00fd podpatek barevn\u00fdch st\u0159ev\u00ed\u010dk\u016f. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no cel\u00e9 m\u011bsto probud\u00ed reproduktory zes\u00edlen\u00fd zp\u011bv muezzin\u016f, kter\u00fd podivn\u011b pronik\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b z\u0161e\u0159el\u00fdm m\u011bst\u011bm. Krom\u011b toho lze tak\u00e9 \u010das od \u010dasu zahl\u00e9dnout \u017elutohn\u011bd\u00e1 \u010di \u017eluto\u010derven\u00e1 roucha buddhistick\u00fdch mnich\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed studuj\u00ed na m\u00edstn\u00ed univerzit\u011b sanskrt nebo p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed kv\u016fli st\u00fap\u011b v Sarn\u00e1thu.<\/p>\n

Ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed je i k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e1 men\u0161ina \u010d\u00edtaj\u00edc\u00ed asi dv\u011b procenta obyvatelstva, ale zd\u00e1 se, \u017ee se jedn\u00e1 o komunitu malou a zna\u010dn\u011b rozd\u011blenou. Tvo\u0159\u00ed ji p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm lid\u00e9 z jihu Indie a hrstka m\u00edstn\u00edch konvertit\u016f. Ve star\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b je \u00fatulek pro nejchud\u0161\u00ed, kter\u00fd vedou mision\u00e1\u0159ky milosrdenstv\u00ed. Jeho sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed je mal\u00e1 kaple, kam chod\u00ed ka\u017ed\u00e9 r\u00e1no na m\u0161i i n\u011bkter\u00e1 z mal\u00fdch sester Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161ov\u00fdch, kter\u00e9 s\u00eddl\u00ed nedaleko. Irsk\u00e1 sestra Mary, kter\u00e9 je \u010dty\u0159iaosmdes\u00e1t a kterou dob\u0159e znaj\u00ed nejm\u00e9n\u011b t\u0159i generace m\u00edstn\u00edch lid\u00ed, m\u011b vzala s sebou na ned\u011bln\u00ed m\u0161i a mus\u00edm \u0159\u00edci, \u017ee se jednalo o z\u00e1\u017eitek pro Evropana zna\u010dn\u011b nev\u0161edn\u00ed. M\u0161e se slou\u017e\u00ed v siln\u011b sanskrtizovan\u00e9 hind\u0161tin\u011b a vliv indick\u00e9ho prost\u0159ed\u00ed je nep\u0159ehl\u00e9dnuteln\u00fd. P\u0159eva\u017euj\u00ed barvotiskov\u00e9 obr\u00e1zky a plast, sed\u00ed se na zemi na roho\u017e\u00edch a sv\u00edce chr\u00e1n\u00ed sklen\u011bn\u00e9 kryty, aby je nesfoukl pr\u016fvan od ventil\u00e1tor\u016f, bez nich\u017e se ani v \u0161est hodin r\u00e1no ned\u00e1 fungovat. \u017deny a mu\u017ei si automaticky sedaj\u00ed odd\u011blen\u011b stejn\u011b jako v hinduistick\u00fdch chr\u00e1mech (je zaj\u00edmav\u00e9, \u017ee Evropanka se v tomto p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b po\u010d\u00edt\u00e1 jako mu\u017e).<\/p>\n

Zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 je \u0159e\u0161en\u00ed probl\u00e9m\u016f ohledn\u011b zp\u016fsobu pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed kv\u016fli odli\u0161n\u00e9mu pojet\u00ed \u010distoty v indick\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti. P\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed na ruku nen\u00ed obvykl\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem mo\u017en\u00e9, nebo\u0165 lev\u00e1 ruka je pou\u017e\u00edv\u00e1na k r\u016fzn\u00fdm ne\u010dist\u00fdm \u00fa\u010del\u016fm a t\u0159eba j\u00edst levou rukou je vn\u00edm\u00e1no jako krajn\u011b nechutn\u00e9. P\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed z kalicha tak\u00e9 nen\u00ed mo\u017en\u00e9, nebo\u0165 za krajn\u011b odporn\u00fd je pova\u017eov\u00e1n i jak\u00fdkoliv kontakt se slinami jin\u00e9ho \u010dlov\u011bka (kdy\u017e se chce v Indii \u010dlov\u011bk nap\u00edt ze spole\u010dn\u00e9 n\u00e1doby, mus\u00ed ji dr\u017eet n\u011bkolik centimetr\u016f nad \u00fasty a tekutinu si bez dotyku l\u00edt do krku). Ze stejn\u00e9ho d\u016fvodu nen\u00ed vn\u00edm\u00e1no jako vhodn\u00e9 ani p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed do \u00fast. Z toho d\u016fvodu se u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 m\u00edsto kalicha mal\u00e9ho kal\u00ed\u0161ku, kter\u00fd je polo\u017een vedle n\u00e1doby s hostiemi na mal\u00e9m t\u00e1cku zp\u016fsobem, kter\u00fd n\u00e1padn\u011b p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 zp\u016fsob pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed posv\u011bcen\u00fdch sladkost\u00ed pras\u00e1d\u016f p\u0159i hinduistick\u00e9 p\u00fad\u017ee (p\u0159ij\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed se do hind\u0161tiny dokonce p\u0159ekl\u00e1d\u00e1 jako pras\u00e1d). Hostie se pak pod\u00e1 do prav\u00e9 ruky, ka\u017ed\u00fd ji s\u00e1m omo\u010d\u00ed v kal\u00ed\u0161ku a p\u0159ijme p\u0159\u00edmo nad t\u00e1ckem. Takto nejsou poru\u0161ena \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 indick\u00e1 spole\u010densk\u00e1 pravidla a nav\u00edc nehroz\u00ed \u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed infek\u010dn\u00edch chorob, kter\u00e9 v Indii \u010d\u00edhaj\u00ed na ka\u017ed\u00e9m kroku.<\/p>\n

I p\u0159es nesrozumiteln\u00fd jazyk a exoti\u010dnost prost\u0159ed\u00ed a zvyklost\u00ed si v\u0161ak lze po rann\u00ed m\u0161i ve star\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b odn\u00e9st pocit jak\u00e9si pat\u0159i\u010dnosti, s n\u00edm\u017e \u010dlov\u011bk ve st\u0159edn\u00ed Evrop\u011b \u010dlov\u011bk opou\u0161t\u00ed kostel jen z\u0159\u00eddka. M\u00e1m dojem, \u017ee je to p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm proto, \u017ee v \u010cech\u00e1ch \u010dlov\u011bk vych\u00e1z\u00ed do prost\u0159ed\u00ed p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b sekul\u00e1rn\u00edho, zat\u00edmco ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed vyjde ven mezi lidi, kte\u0159\u00ed prost\u011b jen uct\u00edvaj\u00ed Boha jin\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem. Kdy\u017e chcete j\u00edt r\u00e1no na m\u0161i, vzbud\u00ed v\u00e1s zp\u011bv muezzin\u016f svol\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00edch muslimy k modlitb\u011b, cestou na m\u0161i potk\u00e1v\u00e1te hinduisty chystaj\u00edc\u00ed se k rann\u00ed koupeli, potom p\u0159i prom\u011b\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00ed otev\u0159en\u00fdmi okny kaple zazn\u00edv\u00e1 hlasit\u00e9 vyzv\u00e1n\u011bn\u00ed p\u0159i rann\u00ed ob\u011bti z hinduistick\u00e9ho chr\u00e1mu v sousedstv\u00ed a cestou zp\u00e1tky potk\u00e1te p\u00e1r rozesm\u00e1t\u00fdch tibetsk\u00fdch mnich\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed se pr\u00e1v\u011b n\u011bkam p\u0159esunuj\u00ed na kole. Jak\u00e1koliv forma ateismu je v Indii a ve V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed zvl\u00e1\u0161t\u011b z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed kuri\u00f3zn\u00ed a krajn\u011b nezvyklou. V\u00e1r\u00e1nas\u00ed by tak s trochou nads\u00e1zky bylo mo\u017eno charakterizovat jako jedno z m\u00e1la m\u00edst na sv\u011bt\u011b, kde ka\u017edodenn\u00ed chov\u00e1n\u00ed i velmi n\u00e1ru\u017eiv\u011b praktikuj\u00edc\u00edho katol\u00edka m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt pova\u017eov\u00e1no za pon\u011bkud mdl\u00e9, ritu\u00e1ln\u011b chud\u00e9 a m\u00e1lo enthusiastick\u00e9. Je vlastn\u011b docela p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 ocitnout se n\u011bkde, kde \u010das od \u010dasu zaslechnete na ulici od n\u011bkoho na z\u00e1pad\u011b ji\u017e ot\u0159epanou a zprofanovanou fr\u00e1zi \u201e\u00f3m namah \u0160iv\u00e1ja\u201c, tedy \u201epochv\u00e1len bu\u010f \u0160iva\u201c, a v\u011bd\u011bt, \u017ee doty\u010dn\u00fd to s velkou pravd\u011bpodobnost\u00ed mysl\u00ed v\u00e1\u017en\u011b.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

T\u011bch n\u011bkolik poklidn\u00fdch a p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00fdch dn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 jsme pl\u00e1novali str\u00e1vit na r\u00e1d\u017easth\u00e1nsk\u00e9m venkov\u011b, uplynulo jako voda, a tak jsme se za\u010dali pozvoln\u00fdmi p\u0159\u00edskoky p\u0159esunovat do Beng\u00e1lska. Po kr\u00e1tk\u00e9 zast\u00e1vce v D\u017eajpuru, ru\u0161n\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b s bohatou histori\u00ed a mnoha zaj\u00edmav\u00fdmi pam\u00e1tkami, jsme nasedli na vlak a druh\u00fd den jsme se s pom\u011brn\u011b snesiteln\u00fdm p\u011btihodinov\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm ocitli […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":18,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/411"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/18"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=411"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/411\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4657,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/411\/revisions\/4657"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=411"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=411"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.cestanahoru.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=411"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}